Knock Sensor Chevrolet Traverse 3.6L 2009-2017 Location and Replacement

In this video, I show you the exact location and the complete step-by-step process to replace the engine knock sensors on a 2009-2017 Chevrolet Traverse equipped with the 3.6L V6 engine.

Knock sensors monitor the engine for unusual vibrations caused by pre-ignition or “detonation” (pinging), allowing the computer to retard ignition timing and protect the internal components. On this 3.6L high-feature V6, GM utilizes two distinct knock sensors, and they are buried deep in the valley of the engine block, directly underneath the lower intake manifold assembly. Because reaching them requires removing both the upper plastic intake plenum and the lower aluminum intake manifold, knowing how to safely clear the fuel rails, isolate open intake ports, and torque the new sensors properly will save you time and keep debris out of your engine cylinders.

Sensor Locations:

• Bank 1 Knock Sensor: Located inside the engine valley block, positioned toward the rear cylinder bank (closest to the firewall).
• Bank 2 Knock Sensor: Located inside the same engine valley block, positioned toward the front cylinder bank (closest to the radiator).

Common Symptoms of a Bad Knock Sensor:

• The check engine light comes on, flagging specific circuit or performance codes such as P0325, P0327, P0328, P0330, or P0332
• A noticeable drop in engine power and slow acceleration, as the computer defaults to a conservative spark timing map to protect the engine
• Reduced fuel economy because the engine management system cannot optimize the combustion cycle
• A distinct engine pinging, metallic knocking, or rattling sound, especially when climbing hills or accelerating under heavy load
• Erratic engine idling or random hesitation when trying to merge onto the highway

Safety First

Always prioritize safety before tackling a deep engine repair. Make sure the vehicle is safely parked on a flat, level surface, the emergency brake is securely engaged, and the ignition is turned completely off with the keys removed. You must allow the engine to cool down completely to the touch before removing any intake plumbing or fuel system components.

Because you will be disconnecting the high-pressure fuel fuel rail line to lift the lower manifold, wrap a clean shop rag around the quick-disconnect fitting to catch any pressurized fuel spray, and keep all sparks or open flames far away from the engine bay. The absolute most critical step in this entire repair is plugging the open intake ports in the cylinder heads with clean shop towels immediately after pulling the manifolds. If a stray nut, washer, or piece of dirt falls down an open valve port into the cylinder, it will cause catastrophic engine destruction the moment you start the vehicle. Protect your eyes and skin by wearing safety glasses and fluid-resistant nitrile gloves throughout the task.

Need Help? Ask an Expert

I am an experienced mechanic, and I am here to help you guide your vehicle projects to a successful finish. If you hit a snag trying to disconnect the fuel injector harness strips without breaking the plastic locking tabs, aren’t sure how to clean the carbon buildup off the cylinder head mounting surfaces safely, or want to make sure you have the exact low-torque inch-pound spec for the knock sensor mounting bolts so you don’t crush the delicate internal piezo crystals, leave a message in the comments below. Let me know what you are running into, and I will help you solve your car’s problem!